Est. dishing up delicious

5 Min Read
Egg Yolk, Corn, Caviar by Est.

Est., led by chef Jacob Davey, earns its long-held spot on Sydney’s dining scene.

FOOD

Andrea: At Est., it’s all about the appetisers: concentrated shots of flavours and textures. The chicken skin and anchovy taster grabs my attention – a strand of rich, salty anchovy juxtaposes a thin layer of crispy chicken skin, bitten by the tang of lemon.

Est.’s potato, aged beef and Parmesan starter reminds me of a crunchy hash-brown. It’s smattered by creamy aged beef tartare and laced with fine ribbons of parmesan.

Est.'s potato, aged beef and parmesan.
Est.’s potato, aged beef and parmesan.

Dig your spoon deep into the egg yolk hidden under cream of corn and sprinkled with the essence of the sea: caviar.

Rex: Est. also offers crab paired with urchin and avocado, and mackerel wrapped in cucumber and topped with trout roe.

Fresh trout roe morsel at Est.
Fresh trout roe morsel at Est.

But I agree with you: the chicken skin, the hash brown and the egg yolk dishes stand out. It doesn’t feel like chicken skin, but it tastes like it. And the way it plays with the strong flavours of the anchovy almost balances the pairing.

Crispy chicken skin and anchovy at Est.
Explosions of flavour in the Chicken Skin taster.

The egg-yolk dish has presence. It’s a little mild though – maybe a bit more caviar would help.

Andrea: With the mains, how can you not be captivated by the aged duck in treacle glaze with neck sausage and baked in salted fennel? And that’s not all. It’s got blueberries, confit leg, potato cream, smoked apple, duck broth and tinged with lemon myrtle. It surprises me this doesn’t translate as overwhelming!

Rex: It comes out well – and that goes for the presentation too, especially when a chef presents us with the duck before it’s served up.

Roast duck on a bed of fennel at Est.
The Est. aged duck was a real treat.

Andrea: The desserts are pleasant. The confit of strawberries with omija, olive oil and almond milk works as a palate cleanser. I love that it’s light, having just indulged on a multiple of savoury plates.

Rex: It’s unexpected, a good interplay of flavours and textures and temperatures in some way.

Andrea: The Valhrona chocolate mousse is positioned as the star. It’s accompanied by muscat icecream, potato, prune and a pumpkin sauce. The smooth nitrogen frozen almond milk pebbles helps balance out the sweetness of the chocolate, but I’m too full by this stage to enjoy it properly!

Est. dessert: chocolate, pumpkin and almond icecream
A dessert of contrasts.

AMBIENCE

Andrea: Est.’s white-dressed tables let the dishes shine – especially the egg-yolk plate, where the shells filled with cream of corn and yolk sit like two googly, caviar-laced eyes sitting atop a pebble-filled bowl.

Chandeliers scatter across the high ceiling, adding elegance to the room. We can hear each other talk but I still enjoy the low buzz of other diners across the room.
Rex: Having not eaten here before I didn’t want to do too much research before we arrived, so I am pleasantly surprised by the soft ambience where other diners look relaxed, the waitstaff cheery and we can hear each other talk.

Egg shells filled with cream of corn sit like two googly, caviar-laced eyes.

SERVICE

Rex: And I don’t feel like we are being checked on unnecessarily.

There was a small miscommunication earlier with the sommelier where we had ordered a bottle of sake, but during the course of our conversation he thought we had wanted just a couple of glasses. He quickly and personably rectifies this, and offers to take photos of us to remember the evening by. He really makes an effort.

The wine list is extensive and even includes sake – one of our favourites types. Est.’s prices make it best for those special occasions and we definitely recommend booking in advance. You can expect to spend about two or three hours here.

Andrea: Which if anything like our experience, will be spent soaking up beautiful flavours, a humming ambience and your own uninterrupted evening.


Est. | $$$
Level 1/252 George St, Sydney, NSW,
Australia

Opening hours
Mon-Fri: 12:00pm-2:30pm, 6:00pm-10:00pm
Sat: 6:00pm-10:00pm
Sun: Closed

 

Share This Article
Leave a comment